While we were staying in central Kyoto we decided to visit Aizen Kobo. One hundred years ago the Utsuki family made brocade obi - the sash around the middle of kimono. After the jacquard loom was introduced to Japan and the kimono became less popular for every day wear, the family joined the Japan Folk Art movement and learned the old way of making natural indigo dye - or aizome. This is the only shop in Kyoto, and one of very few left in Japan that makes and sells handwoven, hand dyed, hand embroidered garments of true indigo.
We spent an hour with Mr. Utsuki. He is the second generation of this craft and his son is following in the family business as well. He showed us the 140 year old house and walked us through the entire dyeing process. He uses plants to make indigo, putting them through a fermentation process. He also uses persimmons and the rose madder root for colors others than the deep blue indigo.
He is pictured above stirring the fermenting indigo and (right) showing us an antique fire fighter's coat and hat. In addition to the fact that indigo does not burn, the coat is stuffed with paper which is soaked with water to keep the fire fighter from burning. Both the house and Mr. Utsuki are considered national treasures of Japan.